There’s a genius working in Yonkers every day, and his name is Freddy Navarro.
Starting at 3 a.m.,Freddy single-handedly makes the bagels, croissants and apple turnovers that fill the display cases at Goldberg’s Famous Bagels & Deli. Each day, he transforms more than 300 pounds of flour into more than 1,400 bagels, using recipes he has never written down and ingredient amounts he estimates without a scale.
Freddy has been perfecting his craft at Goldberg’s for 32 years. Every ingredient, measurement, step of the process and recipe lives in his head. He created and refined his methods himself, mastering the complex choreography of mixing, rolling, proofing, boiling and baking that produces a great bagel.
The dough is shaped into individual bagels and left to proof overnight. In the early morning hours, Freddy moves on to the next crucial step: boiling the bagels before baking them. The brief bath in boiling water helps create their distinctive shape, chewy texture and crust.
Then comes one of the most satisfying moments of the morning. The scent of freshly baked cinnamon-raisin bagels fills the kitchen as Freddy pulls a flawless batch from the oven. The cinnamon-raisin bagel is Freddy’s favorite.
A neighborhood morning ritual
Goldberg’s is not a place you stumble onto. It sits in a small strip mall on the access road along the west side of Interstate 87, just past the Cross County Parkway exit and a Mavis Tire. The customers who find it mostly know exactly where they’re going.
Just after the doors open one Monday morning, customers — mostly men, mostly dressed in work clothes — stream into the shop, ordering breakfast sandwiches and coffee. The atmosphere is friendly and familiar. Many customers chat with Eugene and Erendira, the two helpful hands behind the counter. Eugene has been there for 25 years, Erendira for 10.
One customer explains why Goldberg’s has become part of his daily routine. “I live in Cortlandt and come here for my bagel and egg sandwich on my way to work every morning. Nobody makes a better bagel. The sandwiches are stuffed and the prices are very reasonable compared to other places.”
Behind the counter, the morning rush continues. By 6 a.m., the cases are filled with freshly baked bagels and flagels — flat bagels with a distinctive shape and texture. There are plenty of choices, including plain, whole wheat, sesame, pumpernickel, blueberry, sun-dried tomato, onion and cinnamon-raisin.
Freddy also prepares approximately 100 pounds of flavored cream cheeses, mixing them himself to accompany the day’s fresh bagels.
A lifetime of know-how
Born in Costa Rica, Freddy is now a remarkably youthful-looking, energetic 75-year-old. He smiles and laughs easily, projecting the confidence of someone who has spent decades mastering his craft. He clearly loves what he does.
His workday begins long before most of Yonkers is awake. He rises at 2:30 a.m. and arrives at the shop around 3 a.m., ready to begin another morning of mixing, shaping, boiling and baking.
The results speak for themselves. I tried a sesame bagel with a generous layer of cream cheese. Its crust was wonderfully crunchy, its center soft and chewy with just the right amount of saltiness. The cream cheese was silky smooth, with the fresh, whipped quality of something made by hand.
After watching Freddy work and tasting the results, I understand why customers return day after day. Behind every bagel is a combination of experience, precision and love that no written recipe can fully capture.
Freddy plans to retire in about a year, but don’t despair; he’s teaching Eugene Luna, the store’s manager, the art of making his famous Goldberg’s bagels. Freddy’s cheerful energy and artistry will be missed, but he’ll leave behind a baking legacy perfected over many years.
I’ll definitely be back soon to savor more of Freddy Navarro’s genius.
Goldberg’s Famous Bagels & Deli is located at 777 Central Park Ave., Yonkers, New York. The shop accepts cash only. Hours are 5 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, 5 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday, and 5 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday.
